Berlin’s culinary scene has many favorites. At Christmas time, it is without question hot mulled wine and crispy bratwurst. Everyone knows where to find them – which is why the city’s Christmas markets are currently bursting at the seams. Concepts such as all-you-can-eat Christmas markets offer fair-priced alternatives, but it’s still not really cheap. Mulled wine now costs a hefty 7.50 euros at some stands. One very special favorite, however, accompanies Berlin all year round and never goes out of fashion: the kebab. Crispy flatbread, juicy meat, individually topped and rounded off with a spicy sauce – it is impossible to imagine Berlin’s snack culture without it. And just like its popularity, its price has changed significantly since it was first established in Berlin around 1980. It has risen continuously over the decades – a phenomenon now known as Berlin kebab inflation.
In the 1980s, the kebab began its triumphal march through Berlin’s snack culture. At a price of around 5 German marks (DM) – the equivalent of around 2.56 euros – it was an affordable, filling meal for many Berliners. The kebab stores of the time were mostly small family businesses: homemade grills, improvised counters and a simple window facing the street characterized the image. They were mainly found in districts with large Turkish communities such as Kreuzberg, Neukölln and Wedding.
Veal was considered the standard at the time, while the chicken version only slowly became established in the 1990s. Meat, lettuce, onions and tomatoes, served in thick flatbread from the bakery around the corner – that was the kebab of the time. Vegetarian alternatives or modern variations with halloumi, falafel or unusual sauces were largely unknown. The doner kebab was “simple but honest”: lots of meat, few frills – and that’s exactly what made it so popular.
In the 1990s, the kebab price initially remained surprisingly stable at 5 to 6 Deutschmarks. This boosted its popularity and cemented its place in Berlin’s food culture. The kebab was no longer only found in Turkish-influenced neighborhoods, but also in central districts such as Mitte, Charlottenburg and Prenzlauer Berg. With the fall of the Berlin Wall, new customers arrived – from both East and West. Numerous new stores opened, especially around train stations, subway stations and shopping centers. The kebab itself also changed: the bread became thinner, red cabbage and peppers found their place. This period also saw the start of the competition for the “best kebab shop in Berlin”, which continues to this day.
With the introduction of the euro in 2002, the price of a kebab was around 2.50 euros. Towards the end of the 2000s, it rose to around three to 3.50 euros – a price increase that was accepted by most people. From 2010, the price rose more noticeably: By 2015, a kebab already cost around four to 4.50 euros, and by the end of the decade it reached the five-euro mark for the first time in many snack bars. To set themselves apart from the competition, many stores increasingly focused on quality, larger portions and new sauce variations. More “luxurious” versions with feta, halloumi or special veal mixtures also appeared for the first time.
By 2020, the market had changed further. In 2022, the average price was already around 6 euros – and it hasn’t gotten any cheaper since then. Currently, the average kebab price in Berlin is around 7.08 euros, in some stores even 8 euros or more. The main reasons for this are the coronavirus pandemic and its economic after-effects: rising energy and raw material costs, higher rents and rising labor costs. At the same time, organic kebabs, vegan seitan options and homemade flatbreads have become the standard in many snack bars – driving prices even higher. So what was once a “cheap snack” is no longer the case.